於尼泊爾時間10/1號早上7:30成功登頂世界第七高峰,道拉吉里峰Dhaulagiri海拔8,167公尺⛰️
9/27半夜三點趁天氣還穩定時出發越過冰川,經過冰岩混合地形這裡矗立五十公尺高的幾近垂直的峭壁,再過去則是坡度近四十度、三百公尺的橫切路線,經連夜大雪又大雨,岩壁許多脆弱岩片直接砸在身上,非常危險的路段,必需儘速行經,就像走在土石流堆上ㄧ面還有水流沖刷著,還需擔心雪崩完全沒有地方可閃避。
接著在六個多小時、冰裂縫包圍中抵一號營地海拔5300公尺,9/28 C1高營住ㄧ夜、9/29、9/30 C2住兩夜,好幾夜大雪修路團隊止於C3,雪深及喉嚨,看著天氣預報只剩昨日與今天有窗口,接下來天氣都更加不好且風速會達到四十以上,我跟團隊想著最後的機會ㄧ試。
通過極端的困難和挑戰,團隊成功地攀登上了這座被稱為「白色的山」的山頂。在這漫長而危險的攀登過程中,經歷了暴風雪、懸崖峭壁、雪崩和落石等危險,必須全神貫注才能保持安全。這次攀登的成功,體現了團隊的毅力、決心和勇氣。
At 7:30 am on October 1st Nepal time, we successfully reached the summit of the world’s seventh highest mountain, Dhaulagiri, with an altitude of 8,167 meters ⛰️.
We set out at 3:00 am on September 27th, taking advantage of the stable weather to cross the glacier. We encountered a nearly vertical cliff towering fifty meters high amidst a mixed terrain of ice and rocks. Beyond that, there was a transverse route with a slope of nearly forty degrees and a length of three hundred meters. We had to pass through this very dangerous section, as fragile rocks were constantly falling on us during the night of heavy snow and rain. It was like walking on a debris flow with water rushing underneath, and we had to be mindful of avalanches as there was nowhere to take cover.
After more than six hours surrounded by crevasses, we reached Camp 1 at an altitude of 5,300 meters on September 27th. We spent one night at C1 and two nights at C2 on September 28th and 29th respectively. The road maintenance team had to stop at C3 for several nights due to heavy snow, which was up to our necks. According to the weather forecast, there were only two windows left, yesterday and today. The weather would become worse in the following days, with wind speeds exceeding forty. My team and I decided to seize the last opportunity.
Through extreme difficulties and challenges, the team successfully climbed to the summit of the mountain known as the “white mountain”. During this long and dangerous climb, we experienced storms, cliffs, avalanches, and falling rocks, and we had to remain fully focused to stay safe. The success of this climb embodies the team’s perseverance, determination, and courage.