原本計畫在頂峰停留一晚,再攀登洛子峰,可惜強風來襲,導致帳篷層層撕裂。我在帳篷裡眼看著外面的情況變得越來越糟,內心壓力也不斷加大。幸好夏爾巴及時提醒我穿好登山鞋,用腳抵住破洞處,一整夜都保持這個姿勢直到腳快失溫才放進睡袋。整晚都非常恐怖,隨時有被掀開帳篷的感覺。我當時預感,如果沒有帳篷保護,就算在外面只能堅持三十分鐘。整晚都是一場驚魂。
第二天早上醒來後真的有種倖存者的感覺。夏爾巴通過對講機告訴我,昨晚的強風已導致兩人死亡,全身暴露在外,懸掛在岩石上。此時已經早上七點,我已經連續好幾晚沒睡覺,全身虛弱。只能儘快下降高度。出帳篷時視野非常短,大家也非常急切地想離開四號營地。在氧氣含量只有平地的三分之一,狂風暴雪的環境下,我仍然無法吸足氧氣。在昏沉中,多次抓住繩索懸掛在冰壁上,幾乎失去了意識。近乎垂直的垂降非常費力,尤其是暴風雪打在暴露的曬傷和疼痛的臉頰上,每走一步都伴隨巨大的疼痛。這樣的天氣真的太可怕了,我曾兩三次因頭暈差點昏睡在雪中。但是意識讓我不斷提醒自己,這裡太冷了,我不想留在這裡。我還沒有完成任務,還沒有回到大本營。無論如何,我必須繼續堅持下去。
The original plan was to stay overnight at the peak and then climb Lhotse, but unfortunately, a strong wind hit and caused the tent to rip layer by layer. I watched from inside the tent as the situation outside worsened and felt the increasing pressure within me. Fortunately, Sherpa reminded me to put on my climbing shoes and use my feet to hold the hole together. I maintained this position throughout the night until my feet were almost numb before putting them back into my sleeping bag. It was a terrifying night with the constant feeling of being blown away, and I had a premonition that without the protection of the tent, I could only endure for thirty minutes outside. It was a night of horror.
The next morning, I woke up with a feeling of being a survivor. Sherpa informed me via the walkies-talkie that the strong wind had caused two deaths the night before, leaving their bodies exposed and suspended on the rocks. It was already 7:00 in the morning, and I had not slept for several nights, leaving me physically weakened. I had to descend as quickly as possible. When I stepped out of the tent, my vision was limited, and everyone was eager to leave Camp 4. Even with oxygen levels only one-third of what was on flat ground and in the midst of a blizzard, I still couldn’t get enough oxygen. In a daze, I clung to the ropes hanging on the ice wall several times, almost losing consciousness. The nearly vertical rappelling was extremely strenuous, especially when the blizzard hit my sunburned and painful cheeks, causing tremendous pain with every step. The weather was truly frightening. I almost fell asleep in the snow two or three times due to dizziness. However, my consciousness reminded me repeatedly that it was too cold here, and I did not want to stay. I had not yet completed my mission or returned to base camp. Regardless, I had to persevere.