我們從大本營出發,一路攀爬至二號營地(4000-6000米),耗時長達17小時直到晚上六點才抵達。整段路程都是45度到75度的硬雪混藍冰,沒有地方可以休息,只能趁著繩索等待時,快速使用冰爪踢出支點進行補給,並且隨時注意上方懸崖的巨大冰塊可能隨時落下,需要盡速通過。
攀爬過程中,我們需要不斷閃躲上方攀登者踢下來的雪、岩石,同時留意上方攀登者的冰爪和不時從天而降的崩雪,有時候落下的面積甚至比自己還大。就在我們攀爬到海拔5500公尺時,突然聽到上方的人大喊「小心!」,我整個人在75度超斜藍冰上橫切面奔跑,心臟都快跳出來了。
最後一段路程是攀登整整200公尺、垂直90度的Kinshoffer岩壁,在攀岩過程中由於夏季融雪後的關係,我們不斷聽到雪崩聲,甚至有的地方變成了瀑布。最後ㄧ段更需要穿過水流,讓我們全身濕透,甚至連雪靴都無法避免。此時,天色已漸漸暗下來,寒風吹拂在岩壁上,我們心中只有一個念頭,就是平平安安地回到最後的目的地。
最終,我們成功地完成了攀登,回到大本營時已經是晚上十點,但是全體隊員都被這個壯麗的景色所感動。我們在山頂上拍下了照片,大家相互擁抱,一起歡呼,這是我們一生中難忘的經歷。
We started from the base camp and climbed all the way up to Camp 2 (4000-6000 meters), which took us a grueling 17 hours to arrive, not until 6 PM at night. The entire route was a mix of hard snow and blue ice, ranging from 45 to 75 degrees, with no place to rest except for quick supply replenishment while waiting on the rope. We had to be cautious of the huge ice blocks that might fall from the cliffs above and pass through quickly.
During the climb, we had to constantly dodge snow and rocks kicked down by climbers above, while also being mindful of their ice axes and occasional avalanches falling from the sky, sometimes even larger than ourselves. When we climbed to an altitude of 5500 meters, we suddenly heard someone from above shouting “Watch out!” I ran across the 75-degree steep blue ice, my heart pounding.
The final stretch was a climb up a 90-degree vertical Kinshoffer rock wall for 200 meters. Due to the melting snow in the summer, we constantly heard the sound of avalanches, and in some places, the water even turned into a waterfall. We had to pass through streams, leaving us soaking wet and even our snow boots were unable to avoid getting wet. At this point, the sun had gradually set, the cold wind was blowing on the rock wall, and we all had one thought in our minds, to return to the final destination safely.
In the end, we successfully completed the climb, arriving back at the base camp at 10 PM. All the team members were moved by the magnificent scenery. We took photos at the summit, hugged each other, and cheered together. This was an unforgettable experience in our lives.